Raising Chicks

Heritage breed chicksChicks can either be hatched out  in an incubator or under a broody hen or purchased as day olds from a breeder. 

Chicks can either be hatched out  in an incubator or under a broody hen or purchased as day olds from a breeder. Chicks should be kept indoors in a heated brooder until they have their feathers, about 4-8 weeks depending on weather conditions.

Brooders 
The chicks first home is called a brooder. The size of the brooder depends on how many chicks you have - the chicks should have enough room to move around, and to lay down and sleep. You also need to have enough space in it for a drinker and a feeder. We recommend a large cardboard box app. 70cm by 60cm by 40cm high. Bigger is better! Two boxes can be taped together to make one large one. The beauty about using cardboard is that it is cheap, hygienic and can be easily disposed of when the chicks move on to the outside coop (compost it or burn it). Chicks need a warm end where the heat source is and a cool end where they can feed and drink. For the first 5 days or so we use chick mat on the base of the brooder box and sprinkle the food directly onto this so the chicks learn to peck at the food and are not confused by the shavings. After  they are orintated and confident eaters place feed in feeder and remove mat and replace with shavings. The bottom of the brooder should have a layer of clean, dry litter: untreated wood shavings. We don’t recommend newspaper as the print ink can get the chicks dirty, it is slippery and gets messy and gets smelly very quickly. The litter should be changed regularly depending on number of chicks, and never allowed to get or remain damp - cleanliness is key.

Temperature 
The best heat source for the chicks is a heat emitting bulb with reflector. This is the best set up you can provide your newly hatched chicks/pheasants/ducklings. The quality ceramic heat bulb emits only heat no light so you chicks will have the warmth they need without light 24/7. This is a more natural way to raise chicks as the chicks will get a good night's sleep and a rested gut rather than feeding and being active 24/7. We have used heat emitters and refectors to raise our broods of chicks over the years and found it to be very successful. We have a range of heat packages available on our products/brooding page plus we also stock the Brinsea Ecoglow 20 brooders. A thermometer in the brooder can be helpful, but you can tell if the temperature is right by how the
Good quality metal heat plate for brooding chicks.chicks behave. If they are panting or scattered farthest from the heat source then they are too hot. If they huddle together in a ball under the bulb, then they are too cold. You can adjust the distance of the bulb (or change the wattage) until its right. The brooder can also be heated by using an ordinary light bulb. A 60W or 75W bulb is usually fine but remember chicks will be exposed to light 24/7 and it is not as economical as most of the power used is wasted as light. The latest technology in brooding is the use of heat plates or pads and this is safe and a healthier option for your chicks and more cost effective to run as the wattage usage is minimal. We have used these in the past and highly recommend them but make sure you are purchasing a quality, reliable brand. If using a heat pad/plate plug it in a couple of hours before adding your chicks so it can warm up - some heat pads take a while to get up to optimum output. Please remember when placing day olds in the brooder box show them where the heat source is and check on them regularly so they know and learn to go under it to keep warm. It might take a day for them to get the hang of it!

Water 
Clean, fresh water must always be available to your chicks. It is well worth investing in a chick drinker - chicks drink a lot of water. We like the plastic kind, it's easy to clean, inexpensive, lightweight and they can't tip it over. They also poop everywhere including right into their water; clean the waterer at least once a day. A proper chick drinker, if used correctly, helps keeps the shavings and box from getting damp and wet which means less time spent on cleaning and less shavings used and is all round more hygienic!

Feeders and feeding 
For the first few days in the brooder box we use chick mat and not shavings. The chick mat works well as it helps the chicks get a good grip avoiding splays but more importantly we sprinkle the crumble on the mat for the first couple of days (no feeder). The chicks have Raising chicks in a sheda natural instinct to scratch and peck so learning that crumble is what they need to eat is best achieved this way. After a couple of days when they are more 'aware' we move over to shavings and place the feed in the correct feeder but still place the feeder on a bit of chick mat or cardboard. They need to learn to eat the feed not the shavings! Feeding out in saucers is wasteful and messy as the chicks just scatter the feed everywhere. We recommend in investing in a suspension chick feeder that keeps the feed clean and in one place. After about 10 days we suspend the feeder above the shavings in the box. Keep it filled up as they eat lots!!
Chicks start out with food called "crumble". It is specially formulated for their dietary needs; it comes both medicated or not. If you don't use medicated feed, you run the risk that *coccidiosis will infect and wipe out as much as 90% of your chicks. If you choose non-medicated feed, pay more attention to cleanliness. The feed is a complete food so no other food is necessary. However, feeding your chicks treats can be fun. After the first week or two, you can give them a worm or a bug or two from your garden to play with and eat. Greens are not recommended because they can cause diarrhea-like symptoms. When droppings are loose, a condition may develop called "pasting up", where droppings stick to the vent area and harden up, preventing the chick from eliminating. Check the chicks for pasting often - if you see this, clean off the vent area.

Play time 
Chicks are insatiably curious. After a couple of weeks they can be put outside for short periods of time if the temperature is warm. They must be watched at this age, however. Chicks can move fast, squeeze into small spaces, and are helpless against a variety of predators, including the family dog or cat. If they have bonded to you (the first large thing a baby chicks sees is forever it's mother, this is called imprinting),so they will follow you around. Chickens become fond of their owners; some will come when you call them and some won't!

Coccidiosis
*Coccidiosis is an intestinal parasite that exists just about everywhere. It can take a heavy toll on chicks, starting from about three weeks of age. The parasite multiplies greatly in the gut of the chick, and vast numbers of "oocycsts" (think of them as eggs) come out in the manure. Chicks raised on litter floors scratch and peck at the litter, looking for food, and become infected. The explosive multiplication of the coccidia can lead to dead, stunted, and sick chicks. Chicks that are exposed to only low levels of coccidia become immune without becoming sick. Control is achieved by breaking the reproductive cycle. Chicks raised on wire floors don't get coccidiosis 7 week old heritage breed pulletsbecause they don't have enough contact with manure. Chicks raised on free range from a very early age tend not to get it because they also don't have enough exposure. Chicks raised on old litter (used for at least six months) tend not to get it because the litter eventually harbors miscroscopic creatures that eat coccidia. Medicated chick starter contains drugs that suppress coccidia directly. Wet litter, crowding, intermittent feeding, and any type of stress tend to increase coccidiosis. If the feeders are empty, the chicks will spend more time nosing around in the litter. If you have an outbreak of coccidiosis, - the first signs are usually visible as ‘bloody’ poos.

Treating coccidiosis
Anti-coccidial drugs are very effective. The danger zone is usually around 3 to 7 weeks. Keep chicks on a crumble that contains low levels of coccidiostat. With a serious outbreak, you need to put a coccidiostat in the water, since sick chicks that will not eat will still drink. There are 2 products on the market; baycox and coxiprol. We have coxiprol available in 250ml bottles. It is worth having an anti-coccidial drug on hand for those emergencies. If caught earlier enough and treated the chicks bounce back quickly.